It is a true vocation inherited from the Cartier brothers who travelled the world, observed and drew inspiration from it, then reinvented it, taking care to always add their artistic touch and savoirfaire. Seeing the beauty of the world, preserving it, and above all, enriching it, are values that have continuously influenced the Maison’s philosophy. The latest Beautés du Monde High Jewellery collection continues this tradition.
Cartier is particularly fascinated by insects because their anatomy concentrates a multitude of details into a miniature space. Among them, Cartier gives prominence to the cicada and conveys its delicacy in the form of a necklace made of diamonds, rock crystal, rubies and onyx. How could one capture the transparency of the cicada’s wings? By choosing rock crystal, for its translucent material but also for the way it brings the light to life when faceted, producing a vibration that evokes the cicada’s song. The translucency of the gem requires an invisible structure to which the designs are attached.
Thus, faceted crystal bars alternate with diamond-paved designs finished with onyx tips, cut into the piece. Oval rubies bring softness and contrast to the composition. This highly symmetrical arrangement unfurls from a central motif made up of three rubies and two diamonds, including a D VS1 weighing 6.10 carats. The contrast of colours – white, black and red – is part of the Maison’s chromatic repertoire. On this structure, which emphasises the sculptural aspects, suppleness is achieved through a series of tiny articulations that form the framework of the piece. This need for fluidity, a promise of comfort when worn, is combined with the challenge of respecting the exact positioning of each element.
A complex work that was born out of the convergence of several crafts: designer, stone, stone experts, lapidaries, jewellers, setters and polishers and which required nearly 1,800 hours of work, including more thatn 1,000 hours for the jewellery and 300 hours for the cutting of the gems.
Four brooches fronm the broches Beautés du Monde Collection
A number of brooches completes the Beautés du Monde collection. Their isnpiration can be seen in their delicate and refined nature, curiously and throughly transformed through the eyes of Cartier into high jewellery creations. Here are four of them.
From the very smallest to the largest, from the simplest to the most fantastic, all animals fascinate Cartier with their beauty and unique qualities. The dragon encounters the dragonfly and the cicada, elephant, flamingo or quetzal with a dazzling vibrancy that celebrates all the Maison’s savoir-faire. Cartier captures and magnifies life by reproducing it through drawing, sculptural work, geometry or abstraction. The interplay of precious stones amplifies the elements of nature that inspire this new collection.
Cartier has always sought to preserve the wonder of these precious stones by carefully ensuring their provenance and sharing their beauty.
A flamingo that spreads its ribbed rubellite feathers, one by one, according to the size of each gem and lined with a curved strip of white or coloured diamonds… A dragonfly with
opal wings finished with a row of rock crystal engraved with veins and secured at the back by an invisible metallic mesh that matches the detail of the veins…
An elephant nestled in a brooch, a work of glyptic art made from petrified magnolia wood and illuminated by a pink sapphire and a briolette diamond… A quetzal that has been transformed into a shoulder jewel, whose feathers of Paraiba tourmaline, sapphires, engraved tsavorite garnets and diamonds sway with the slightest movement…
While the interpretation remains faithful to the initial inspiration, the stylised approach transfigures reality and guides the beholder even further. Before our eyes, a miracle occurs as these pieces come to life. The magic? Cartier owes it to the virtuosity of its savoir-faire, which reveals new facets of beauty through the design and interplay of the precious stones.
The structure, material and pattern of dragon skin all inspire Cartier. This necklace is made up of 80 yellow diamonds weighing approximately 79 carats, together forming the scales of this fantastic reptile that serves as a link between Heaven and Earth. The faceting of the octahedral gems, a rare cut that is seldom found in jewellery, enhances and intensifies the radiance of each individual stone. These intense, luminous diamonds are embedded within hexagonal designs of white gold paved with diamonds, which together form a geometric mesh. This illustrates Cartier’s passion for gemstones with character and distinctive forms.
The composition of interconnected motifs, a veritable architecture sustained by the precision of the design and its interplay of lines, is based on a system that is as original as it is discreet, holding each stone in place by its lower part. Composed of a series articulations which link together each hexagonal design, the result is incredibly fluid structure which is worn as if it were a “second skin”
Beautés du Monde, a collection where everyone is invited to share their imagination and embark on their own journey. Capturing the beauty of the world, looking at it though a spectrum of colours, shapes and evocative materials, inspires and transports us.
Enriched by the experience of the Cartier brothers, and with the same spirit of collecting, we take a close look at the world, with all its diversity and wonders. Always striving to enchant the senses, we “transcribe” the richness of cultures, landscapes, fauna and flora with a contemporary outlook. The stone serves as a guide, at the heart of all inspiration, and takes us on a dreamlike journey, a voyage to the very essence of all creations. The design is a testament to this vision, providing it with lines, geometry or abstraction, like a contemporary cabinet of curiosities that gathers together the wonders of the world, where amulets, chimeric rings and other treasures inspired by nature are brought together.